Nathaniel and I spent the past weekend in Savannah, Georgia. Kid free. His parents very graciously volunteered to watch the girls so that we could escape for some much needed grown up time, and use up some flight vouchers that were nearing expiration. Our choice of destinations was almost, but not quite, random. I'd been to Savannah once previously for about two hours when my college roommate and I stopped there for lunch on a roadtrip. The town was lovely in an old, historic, almost eerie way, and I'd always wanted the opportunity to visit. Nathaniel just wanted somewhere as unlike
Vegas as possible this time. Savannah, you fit the bill!
We stayed at a fantastic bed and breakfast, the
Eliza Thompson House. It's a home built in the mid-1800s, in the middle of the historic district of Savannah. With the exception of a trip to the beach on Saturday, we parked our car and walked for the entirety of our stay, which is precisely what I'd hoped to be able to do. It was our first B&B experience, and I really enjoyed it. They offered not only breakfast, but a wine and hors d'oeuvres hour before dinner, so guests could visit and discuss dinner plans, followed later in the evening by coffee and dessert. There were a lot of guests who sat in the sitting room and visited, but they were very clear when we arrived that we were welcome, also, to take wine or coffee or even breakfast up to our room with us if we preferred more privacy. I wasn't sure which way we'd go, but people were very friendly, and we ended up socializing even more than I'd anticipated. It was a great way to get restaurant and sight-seeing ideas since we hadn't planned anything specific in advance.
We spent our first afternoon wandering the streets of Savannah fairly aimlessly, to get a feel for the layout. The next morning, we took a trolley tour to learn more specifics about what to see. After that, we spent the rest of the day walking from square to square, re-visiting the homes the tour guide had pointed out, and taking photos along the way. I pieced my favorite photos of homes, fountains and monuments into a mosaic/poster. It was Nathaniel's idea to do so, with the thought that we might actually print it up and make wall art out of it. This is a rough up, which I'm sure Nathaniel will roll his eyes at before making something much nicer of the same photos (like he might actually spend time adjusting color in the pictures, or cropping them, which I did not). But I wanted to share this since it's easier than uploading so many pictures individually. If you click on it, you can see a larger version to see the pictures in more detail.

That evening, Friday the 13th, we took a walking "ghost tour". It was interesting and our tour guide had good delivery, but we'd chosen a less-cheesy/dramatic tour option so it wasn't too over the top. Oh, and the fact that they let you wander the streets with beer in Savannah makes the tours a little more fun. (Though by the time the tour started we, as old people, had switched to a giant coffee to keep us awake rather than alcohol).
On Saturday we drove to Tybee Island. We checked out the beach briefly, before visiting Fort Pulaski. It was a little more interesting to me than usual, as there were film crews there setting up to shoot some scenes from an upcoming film of Robert Redford's, called
The Conspirator. I don't know much about the movie, but I suppose we'll have to see it now! (They weren't shooting yet, so no famous people to spot there, though I heard later that they were shooting elsewhere in Savannah while we were in town.) The fort had a good guided tour, followed by some guys in Civil War garb teaching about guns of the era and shooting them off. Good stuff. Here are a few pictures from that.
(everything in the grassy field is movie props - normally it's an empty parade ground)
Before heading back into Savannah, we took the recommendation of a couple at the B&B and stopped at "The Crab Shack" for lunch. Wow. You know how some restaurants try to be classy? This was the opposite of those places. They had embraced their tackiness and were rejoicing in it.

It was really fun, and it allowed us to try a whole lot of seafood I'd never tried before. This is Nathaniel's "sampler platter for 1".

I ordered a chicken sandwich to make sure there was something I would actually enjoy eating. But I did try everything on the platter, including mussels, crayfish, shrimp and two types of crab, plus sausages, potatoes and corn. Turns out just about anything dipped in melted butter is edible! The middle of the table was cut out with a trash can underneath so you could just chuck your refuse as you made it. Brilliant.
We spent the rest of Saturday further exploring the city and photographing more beautiful homes and squares. We attended mass at the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist (the church pictured in the poster above), which was beautiful! We wrapped up with our fanciest dinner out followed by watching the last half of the Notre Dame game back at our hotel. At least the dinner part was fun.
Sunday was mostly a travel day, with a large chunk of time spent in the airport in Chicago, but when you're enjoying adult conversation and not wrangling kids, even that can be a lot of fun. The vacation was fantastic. The kids had a great time, and the grandparents are still alive, so I guess I'd say it was an all around success. If you ever have the chance to visit Savannah, I would highly recommend it (though probably not the best place in the world to try to see with small children).
Oh, and we happened across a
fantastic Catholic book store called Saints and Shamrocks. We actually didn't realize at first that it was a Catholic bookstore, as the window was full of ND gifts and imported Irish goods (though the "Year of the Priest" poster should probably have tipped us off). But we were amazed by the shop once we went inside and ended up buying more than we needed, including an awesome silver celtic advent wreath that I can hardly wait to get out! The woman who owns the store was wonderful and chatty and gave us our restaurant recommendation for our last dinner out. I wish I could have spent more time in the shop, and it half makes me want to open my own someday! Very well done! When they get their website up and running (it's currently in the works) I'll have to pass the address along. In the meantime, I've become a fan of theirs on facebook and they post some items there. Not to take away from our local Catholic bookstore, which I LOVE, but this one had a little something extra for us, as Notre Dame fans.
My one regret about our trip to Savannah was that I didn't read
Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil before we went. I'm definitely adding it to my book list. The fact that John Cusack is in the movie meant I did see it once, but it's been years so I hardly remember the premise, and a lot of the tours focus on the events of the book (a true story). There are many very obsessed fans making a sort of pilgrimage of their trips, to see what they can of the Garden sights. I'm not hoping to get that into it, but it should be extra-interesting now that I've spent some time in the city.
Labels: field trip